Next, we’re going to sew the sleeves and sleeve cuffs and set them into the armscye. There have been some enquiries about sewing the sleeve cuffs so I’ll try to explain in as much detail as possible how to sew them. It’s not that complicated once you get the hang of it!

Preparing the sleeves

Set your machine on it’s longest stitch length and place two lines of basting stitches along the sleeve cap between the front and back notches. I like to sew the first row 0.5 cm from the edge and the next row 2 cm from the edge so that when the sleeve is later sewn with a 1.5 cm seam allowance, the basting stitches do not overlap the seam. Do not backstitch and leave the threads long at each end.

In the same way, place two lines of basting stitches along the bottom of the sleeve.

Fusible interfacing

Attach the fusible interfacing to the wrong sides of the sleeve cuffs. Place the fusible interfacing glue side down and protect your iron from possible glue accidents with an ironing cloth. Use a hot, dry iron to press the fabric for about 5-10 seconds to melt the glue and make it stick.

Sleeve cuffs

On one long edge of the cuff pieces, press seam allowance in ( 1.5 cm / 5/8”).

Pull the thread tails on the sleeve to gather and match the cuff. If you try to gather too much fabric in one go, the threads can snap. Therefore, it’s a good idea to gather in sections – one side up to the center notch first, then the other. This way, the gathering will be even.

With right sides together, pin the unfolded edge of the cuff to sleeve, match notches and sew.

Press the seam allowance towards the cuff as shown in the picture below. Remove the basting stitches.

The sleeve should look like this from the right side. The cuff seam allowance is folded to the wrong side.

With the right sides of the sleeve together, pin the underseam, including the cuff. Make sure that the cuff seam allowances are folded towards the sleeve cuff.

Sew the underseam, finish seam allowance as desired and press open.

Take the sleeve and fold the sleeve cuff inside the sleeve as shown in the pictures below. The photos are from the wrong side.

Pin the sleeve cuff in line with the sleeve seam as shown in the picture below. Picture from the right side.

Adjust the stitch length to the longest possible and sew from the right side through all layers close to the seam. This is called basting, the stitch is temporary and is removed at the end. Check that the cuff is neatly in place. Adjust the stitch length back to normal and sew the cuff in place from the right side a few millimetres from the seam. Remove the basting threads.

The sleeves and sleeve cuffs are now ready! Iron the cuffs with a sleeve roll to make them neat and tidy.

This is what the finished sleeve cuff looks like:

Inserting sleeves

Take the previously sewn bodice and the sleeve you just finished. With right sides facing, align the sleeve and armhole together matching the underarm seam and notches. Carefully pull the thread tails to gather the excess fabric between notches, allowing it to curve nicely and match the armhole, pin in place. I recommend basting the sleeve first before the actual sewing.

Stitch around the armhole and remove the basting and gathering threads. Finish seam as desired. And you’re ready!

Hopefully this tutorial clarified the sewing the sleeves and sleeves cuffs. The Lykke blouse is almost finished, now it’s time to trim the neckline and hem.

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